Showing posts with label Avignon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Avignon. Show all posts

Saturday, January 23, 2010

We'll always have Avignon...

I've heard the greatest things about Provence- My Aunt Andree used to rent a house there every year, my parents have rented a house there, and everyone I've ever talked to who has been there, has loved it. So I decided to see what all the hype was about!

When the only flight that I could find to Spain was $3,000.00, Anthony and I decided to take a trip. Thursday morning I trekked to Gare de Lyon to get a Eurail Pass. 5 travel days, 4 countries in 2 months. After demo and practical that night (made very delicious roasted chicken, "turned" an artichoke bottom and filled it with perfectly cut and cooked legumes) I came home and packed for our weekend getaway.

Yesterday I got up at 6am (pause for reaction) and headed to Gare de Lyon. When in my metro station, I heard a train coming, so I sprinted to it and ended up getting on the train heading in the wrong direction. Oops. I fixed that, and after 30 minutes of looking for Anthony we got on our train!

2.5 hours of chatting with other American businessmen heading to Cannes (tough life) we were there. We took a shuttle to the town center and walked to our Hotel. Being that it was 10:30am, the rooms weren't ready, so we ditched our stuff, got a couple of maps and headed out to explore. Our first stop was the Palais des Papes- this massive structure that was built and nearly destroyed during the revolution. Here is a picture of it:



As you can see it was a gorgeous day; it felt so nice to have some sun on my pasty skin! After we walked around there, we went behind it to these great gardens overlooking the city. Avignon is TINY. The maps we were given led us to believe that it was larger than it was, so end to end was about 10 minutes of walking. The gardens were very beautiful and had great views of the Rhone River.






That second picture reminded me so much of you Mom, I had to include it :) Sadly there was no lavender to put in my bottonhole, but I thought of you the whole time I was there!

At about 1pm we went back to our hotel to have a costume change and to get situated. We had a slight miscommunication that led to Anthony sitting downstairs in the lobby waiting while I "closed my eyes" for a few minutes in my room. Whoops! We then set out on the streets to look at other sights around town. The manager of the hotel gave us some great tips and a restaurant suggestion for dinner. We finally found the restaurant and decided we'd find another suitable place to make a reservation. We walked to the other end of town and found this really pretty square- we found a great restaurant and made a reservation for 8pm.

We then walked around to find the hotel where Mom and Dad stayed when they were there. When we found it, we knew it was slightly different than the teeny place we were staying in. It was so beautiful, and once again so Mom. We had a glass of red and felt like a king and queen...then back to reality. But not before taking a couple of pictures!





Upon leaving La Mirande (the haves) and heading back to our neck of the woods (the have nots) Anthony says he's hungry. It's now about 4:30pm and NO ONE was serving snacks. Even in this one cafe where the woman at the desk said they were serving food, a snotty waiter told us then that we were mistaken, that there was no food. Desperate times call for desperate measures. We were forced to go to this GROSS place and choke down a charcuterie plate and a goat cheese salad. It was disgusting, we left immediately and had some tea at another cafe.

After walking around some more, popping into some shops and sight seeing, we came back to shower up for dinner. Looking very dapper, we walked towards where we had made a reservation. 7:00pm is NOT when the French eat. It was a ghost town so we stopped in for a glass of Chateauneuf de Pape at a hotel bar across the square. We had some lovely peanuts and olives to tide us over and the chef sent out some salt cod with some sort of olive spread for us.

8:30 we walked in to the restaurant where we were having dinner. Surely the hostess would remember us...she didn't but we were still able to eat. We both had a tasting menu and it was delicious. I had oysters, then steak and Anthony had foie gras and steak. There was another miscommunication, this time with the waitress who brought us 2 cheese plates instead of 1 cheese plate and 1 apple tart. We choked down the amazing cheese and rolled home.



Having seen 99.99% of Avignon yesterday, we were slightly concerned that we would be bored today. We got up around 8 and walked over to this market to find us some breakfast. Some fruit, coffee/tea and some bread with jam later we were full and ready to walk the same streets again. This time we went in to some more shops and meandered until it was time to head to the train station. I had a BAD case of the giggles and was laughing so hard I cried before we left and we both shrugged and said "we'll always have Avignon".



Another quick train ride home and we're back in Paris! Both of us slept most of the trip home...


It was so beautiful and I'm really really glad we went, but we should have done yesterday in Aix-en-Provence and today in Avignon. That way we wouldn't have had so much time to kill and could have seen 2 beautiful places! I'm so glad I went, I 100% believe why people love it so much. It is beautiful and has a very laid back attitude which I loved. Now I'm back in the hustle bustle of Paris and happy to be home.

A Bientot!!

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Day From Hell

Yesterday was a long one, a really long one.

We had Marche Du Paris at 8:30 with Chef Poupard (my favorite!) where we walked around an open air market and looked at everything. Then we walked back to school and had a little party with all the stuff Chef got for us- We had all sorts of amazing cheeses, pates, bread, cookies, a cheesecake that looked burned on top but was light and fluffy, sausage, charcuterie. It was a feast! It was fascinating to see all of what a market has to offer. We did have to fight some little old ladies who weren't too thrilled with a group of oogling students in their way. Here are some pictures from the market (no pictures of the horse meat place, I couldn't do it!)







Then we had practical- we learned crab bisque on Monday (Poupard!) and were doing that, starting puff pastry and making croutons with clarified butter. We had Poupard again, and I was so excited. He's the type that you really WANT to do well for and impress- not like someone else I know...We started by making the dough for our puff pastry to let is rest in the fridge.

We murdered live crabs in a big pot with VERY hot oil in it (less painful for them). After adding mirepoix aromatic garnish, we took a rolling pin wrapped in film and beat them completely senseless. We crushed them into teeny tiny pieces. Added tomato paste and tomatoes for color and acidity and added a liter of water and a liter of fish stock. Then we just let it cook for 30 minutes.

While the soup was bubbling away, we rolled out our puff pastry dough and did 4 turns. We also cut bread into croutons. Chef said mine were too big (he actually called them sandwiches" but they were the same size- which is key. We fried them in clarified butter and put them aside while we worked on our soup some more.

Finishing the soup, puff pastry and croutons- Chef tasted the soup- he said my consistency was perfect (we thickened it with rice flour) but needed a touch more salt. Overall, good. FEW!

Then we went right to demo where we were learning more soups. We learned French Onion (easy) Fish Soup Marseillaise Style (gross) and we learned to clarify stock into consomme and make cheese straws to go with them.

Right after demo (no food) we went to practical...guess who we had...COTTES. I nearly fell over. The first thing he said to me was "no crying today S'il vous please" that's what he says to be 'funny'. It sucked again with him- I was super behind and he yelled at me a lot again. I'm not sure why he picks on me so much. We had to brunoise vegetables to put in the consomme and he kept telling me mine were too big. I FINALLY got it right, my stock clarified and my cheese straws were 'bien' (a coup for a pastry chef instructor). I threw out my consomme and gave the dishwasher all of my puff pastry. It was 9:15pm and I was exhausted. Frustrated and mad Bruna and I went to have dinner (and dessert- we earned it) and I came home to Skype with Dad. I was in bed at midnight and didn't think I'd wake up this morning I was so tired.

Alas, here I am and I'm pleased to report that Anthony and I are going to Avignon this weekend! I was supposed to go to Spain to see the Weber's but I wasn't able to find flights :( We're going very early on Friday am and returning Saturday evening. It should be really fun! Any and all suggestions welcome!

A Bientot!